LAHORE, RAWALPINDI and THE KHUNJERAB PASS
Backpacking Travel Blog - Travelogue
THE VISIT
Pakistan is a fascinating country. In the past it formed part of the ancient Silk Road which linked Asia and Europe. Khunjerab Pass or Khunjerav is a high mountain pass in the Karakoram Mountains - Pakistan's northern border with China's region of Xinjiang.
http://www.soefisinjoor.be/Silkroad.html
THE PREPARATION
Gathering information of the travel including sightseeing, transportation and accommodation. The required information on public transports like bus, train, metro, to reach the various attractions and get around the city.
Prepare the Itinerary of the places of attraction and Mode of Transport to get there, the amount of time required to arrive there from the hotel and the amount of time to spend at that location. There are numerous places to stay in the city, choose the one base on the hotel condition, price and location close to city center and convenient to find transport to reach the places on the itinerary and easy to find food.
List down the things need to bring. Understand the weather at that time and the appropriate clothing to wear, suitable with the climate of the places at the time of visit.
TOURIST / Visitor VISA
Visa application for Malaysian Citizen to enter Pakistan.
Q. How to obtain a visa application form?
A. The visa application form can be downloaded from the web site or can be collected from the Consular Section of the High Commission.
Foreign Embassy in Malaysia High Commission of The Islamic Republic of Pakistan located in Jalan Ampang Kuala Lumpur. Address: 132, Jalan Ampang, Kampung Baru, 50300 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
All visitors to Pakistan must possess a valid national passport or some form of travel document establishing nationality and identity, to which a photograph must be attached. The passport or other document should be valid for the intended period of stay in Pakistan.
Documents needed for a tourist visa application:
a. Visa application form duly completed with no column left blank.
b. Two passport size photographs.
c. Passport having at least six months validity.
d. Photocopy of Passport.
e. Photocopy of air ticket/flight schedule.
f. Bank deposit slip.
Q. How is visa fee deposited?
A. The visa fee is to be deposited in favour of High Commission for Pakistan account No. 100020014413, at Affin Bank Berhad, Central Branch, Ground Floor, 80, Menara Affin, Jalan Raja Chulan, 50788 Kuala Lumpur.
Q. What is the visa fee for Malaysian Nationals?
Visit/Tourism/Study Visa
(1) Single Entry - RM30.00
(2) Multiple Entry - RM60.00
How long does it takes to get Pakistan visa?
Normally within a week for Malaysian citizen.
FLIGHT DETAILS
Malindo Airways, Tor Air Flight OD131
Kuala Lumpur to Lahore, Alama Iqbal Int'l Airport,
KUL 17:50 to LHE 20:50
6h00m, 6 hours, Direct Flight
Malindo Airways, Tor Air Flight OD132
Lahore to Kuala Lumpur
LHE 16:05 to KUL 0:50
5h45m, 5 hours 45 minutes, Direct Flight
Flight Fare with return ticket around RM 1,800. Boeing 737-800
IMMIGRATION PROCEDURES UPON ARRIVAL
Upon entering a foreign country, the first thing to do is to pass through the Immigration. This is divided into two sections, ‘The country own Citizens’ and ‘Other Country Passports’; make sure to join the correct queue to get Immigration stamping on the passport.
Leave the airport arrival Hall and walk around to look for transport to get to city center.
LAHORE
Lahore is the capital city of the Pakistani province of Punjab, the second largest metropolitan area in the country and 16th most populous city in the world. It is an important historical center in South Asia.
Lahore buses are an easy way to see all of the city's best attractions, sporting venues and shopping precincts.
http://www.ltc.gop.pk/
The Pakistani rupee Rs. (Urdu: روپیہ / ISO code: PKR) is the official currency of Pakistan.
American Fast Food Chain with Burgers, Fries, Ice Cream, etc. All Meat Served is Halal in Pakistan.
TRANSPORT TO LAHORE CITY CENTER
Airport to Hotel
Get on Bus no 28 at Allama Iqbal Airport Bus Stop and get off at Pace Shopping Center. Bus fare Rs. 40
Lahore taxi fare from lahore airport to hotel around Rs. 1400.
HOTEL IN LAHORE
Green Fort Hotel Model Town
House # 9Q, Model Town Link Road, Lahore
LAHORE ATTRACTIONS
It was surprisingly that we didn't encounter any hassles upon arrival at the Lahore International Airport. There are free luggage carts adjacent to the conveyor belt in the arrivals area. Once the friendly airport staff spotted us shoving our way through the melee of baggage inspection, they instantly pulled us from the mosh-pit of aggressive baggage carts, and whisked us on through past the inspection process. What a relief! We really didn’t want to have to unpack.
People were racing through the streets just as we were about to pull out and make our way towards Lahore. Traffic was awful, and it took us a while to get out onto the main road. Once we hit it, the journey was smooth sailing all the way to The City Center. Surprisingly, the roads in Pakistan are very well maintained. We kept expecting to see Afghan-style roads, but the pot holes and craters that have become a commonplace sight were not to be spotted here. Pristine, clean roads are forever etched upon our memories of Pakistan!
But first, we need to check into hotel and then to hit Food Street (or Tourist street)…in either case, mouth-watering wafts of food beckoned us to grab a bite to eat. We decided on lamb kebabs and bread, after which we made our way towards the Shrine of Baba Shah Jamal.
It was later in the evening that we witness something unique. The description of “Spinning Out with Sufis” in our LP guidebook was mesmerizing: “Sufism (Islamic mysticism) is an ancient practice and Sufis (mystics) are on a quest for spiritual emancipation…Hypnotic drumbeats coax Sufis into a frenzied state of intense bliss – swaying, whirling and vigorously shaking their heads – as they relinquish themselves to a higher force. You’ll hear some of Pakistan’s most esteemed dhol (traditional drum) players including Pappu Saeen and the legendary brothers, Gonga and Mithu Saeen. The charismatic Saeen brothers demonstrate remarkable synchronicity when playing together, especially considering the elder of the two, Gonga, was born deaf…on Sufi night Gonga intermittently spins at breakneck speed while simultaneously drumming in sync with Mithu – truly jaw-dropping stuff”.
We joined in the festivities from midnight until 0300, and the description in Lonely Planet (LP) hardly does justice. There is nothing like seeing the Sufis spinning out for hours. Just when you think a normal human being would pass out from disorientation or exhaustion (or better yet, both!), they pick up the pace into a frenzied excitement that even the crowd gets in on…those vibes are contagious!
We were exhausted and only 3 hours of sleep before our very aggressive itinerary the next day. So we headed back towards the hotel to catch a bit of sleep before our 0700 first on the itinerary for the next morning.
Its the time for more sightseeing in Lahore and we wanted to get the most out of our short trip.
First stop today was the Badshahi Mosque, which was located just opposite of the Lahore fort. It is one of the world’s largest mosques, and can hold up to 100,000 people! We were there a bit too early to visit the rooms above the entrance gate. So we decided to admire the interior of the mosque before venturing upstairs to see strands of the Prophet Mohammed’s hair. This mosque reminded us of the Friday Mosque in New Delhi, India. In fact, Lahore’s amazing Mughal architecture was all reminiscent of the architecture in India! But it was a weird sense of deja-vu as we wandered through the Lahore Fort and Badshahi Mosque.
The Lahore Fort was next on our list of sites to visit, and we were greeted by the head director, who graciously sent one of his historians to serve as our official guide. We learned all about Emperor Akbar and the multitude of Mughal emperors who have called Shahi Qila (Lahore fort) home.
The fort is a massive enclosure of gardens, palaces, greeting halls, and mosques, and we didn’t have to strain our imagination too much to envision elephants in rich décor carrying their heavy loads up and down the fort’s grounds. We did see an old fashioned “lawn mower” which made us stop and laugh. It was a bull pulling a blade…but he wasn’t a very good worker since he wanted to stop and eat the grass every few feet and had to be walloped by a team of 3 men who desperately pulled and pushed the bull into motion from all directions! Unfortunately, the Palace of Mirrors was undergoing renovations while we were there, but it reminded us so much of the Amber Palace’s Jai Mandir and Sheesh Mahal (hall of mirrors). We spent some time here admiring all of the fort’s intricate architecture, and could only wonder what it would look like years from now if it were fully restored.
What was amazing is similar places in India are absolutely packed with tourists, whereas here we had the grounds to ourselves!
The views from various lookout points at Lahore fort were quite good, despite the haziness of Lahore. The 60 meter high Minar-i-Pakistan, a modern looking minaret that commemorates the founding of Pakistan, was in full view from the Shish Mahal (Palace of Mirrors).
Afterwards, we visited Jehangir’s tomb. This tomb is set in a beautifully laid out courtyard, which consisted of a 180 room caravanserai (resting place for pilgrims, animals, and travelers). The tomb itself was surprisingly beautiful, crafted from marble and gemstones (which, sadly, had been plucked out). There were decorations on the tomb touting the 99 attributes of Allah, and we were impressed with Emperor Jehangir’s final resting place. Our cheap flip flops that we placed outside were met with a demand for 200 Rupee payment (for the safekeeping). We laughed and told the caretaker that the slippers weren’t even worth 200 Rupees!
We then scale one of the towering minarets soaring over the tomb. After admiring the bird’s eye view (and wondering how sturdy the minaret was post-earthquake), we headed towards the Tomb of Asif Khan.
We were keen on catching the Wagah border ceremony, which has taken place every day since 1948 at the border between Pakistan and India. This colorful ceremony is not to be missed, and we were told that the underdogs (Pakistan) always outperformed the mightier and more powerful India in shouting and chanting matches. However, the Pakistanis today’s performance was an anomaly. Plus, the Pakistani border guards had just imposed a new 10 Rupee surcharge to witness the ceremony, and it obviously had a negative effect in the crowd’s turnout. We were told to look out for a grizzled, old man who had been in attendance every single day for the past 6+ years! We soon spotted him, as he wore a mask of rage against his arch-rivals in India, was dressed from head to toe in the Pakistani flag colors, and furiously swung his Pakistani flag while drumming up the crowd for support.
The Wagah flag lowering and gate-closing ceremony is such a trip. We had a lot of fun witnessing it, even though foreign men were herded off to one side of the street, with foreign women sectioned off on the other side, while the locals were sent back to the bleachers further away. We quickly learned the chant “Pakistan Zindabad!” (Long Live Pakistan) and we cheered as loudly as we could, but were drowned out by the Indian side (no wonder…the Indian side smartly had bus loads of “spectators” brought in to cheer for the performance) The whole ceremony takes about 45 minutes, and we laughed at the uniformed Pakistani guards, who goose-stepped smartly and clicked their heels loudly against the tarmac. It was such a neat event, with both India and Pakistan vying to have the sharpest looking performers.
The ceremony ended, and going for a quick meal was the next thing on our minds. So we settled for some delicious, deep fried samosas, which satiated our hunger. It wasn’t enough though, so we headed for Food Street in the search of some dinner grub. Remembering how much food we had heaped on us last night, we decided to share a simple meal of lamb chunks and bread, and the amount of food served was perfect.
SOME NOTES ON LAHORE ATTRACTION PLACES
Gawalmandi Food Street in Lahore was the first food street in Pakistan. Get on bus B-19 and get off at Bakar Mandi Bus Stop.
Badshahi Masjid (mosque). Lahore is home to some of the most beautiful architectural and historical sights. This mosque dates back to the Mughal era. Built in Emperor Aurangzeb’s rule between 1672-74, it is one of the biggest mosques in the world. It is entirely made of marble and red sandstone. The walls and roofs of prayer halls are decorated with Islamic calligraphy. Get on Bus no. 16 from Liberty Market Bus Stop and get off at Taksaali Chowk Bus Stop. Walk to Badshahi Masjid that located just across the street.
Wagah Border: This is the border between Lahore, Pakistan and Amritsar in India. Wagah (or Wagha) is a border town straddling the line between Pakistan and India, 29 km from the town of Lahore. From Lahore Station, take a bus, or taxi. Minibus No.4 leaves from outside Lahore Railway Station every 15 minutes (Rs. 12), while a taxi should cost Rs. 1000. The trip takes around half an hour.
To get to the Wagah border by bus from Regal Chowk (The Mall) catch bus no. 3 (Rs 4, about 20 minutes) to the main train station and from there take bus 4 (Rs. 12, about one hour) to the border – but before boarding bus 4 confirm with the driver that it goes to the Wagah border, as not all do.
A taxi from The Mall to the border costs about Rs. 800 (a return journey including one hour’s waiting time is around Rs. 2000). The TDCP conducts tours to the border-closing ceremony.
Wagah border is famous for its daily flag-lowering ceremony which is carried out by both countries before sunset. The gates are unlocked and the soldiers from both countries carry out a parade which then leads to lowering the flags, folding them, handshake between soldiers from either side and shutting the gates. All of this is witnessed daily by spectators in Amritsar and Lahore every day, with unique tradition.
Its time to leave Lahore and go to Rawalpindi.
LAHORE TRAIN STATION
Get on Bus No 5 from Liberty Roundabout Bus Stop and get off at Railway Station Bus Stop
SCHEDULE OF TRAIN AWAM EXPRESS
Departure
Lahore 06:40 am ➜ Rawalpindi 12:35 pm
Return
Rawalpindi 13:45 pm ➜ Lahore 20:20 pm
RAWALPINDI
Rawalpindi is commonly known as Pindi, a city in the Punjab, Pakistan. It is the administrative seat of the Rawalpindi District.
RAWALPINDI-ISLAMABAD METROBUS
The Rawalpindi-Islamabad Metrobus is the BRT system that serves the Islamabad Rawalpindi metropolitan area in Pakistan. It uses dedicated bus lanes for all of its route covering 24 bus stations.
Pakistan Metro Bus stops: Bus Transport between Rawalpindi Railway Station and Shah Faisal Mosque. Get on the bus from Marrir Bus Stop and get off the bus once arrive at PIMS Bus Stop.
Marrir Chowk ➜ Liaquat Bagh ➜ Committee Chowk ➜ Waris Khan ➜ Chandani Chowk ➜ Rehmanabad ➜ 6th Road ➜ Shamsabad ➜ Faizabad ➜ IJP ➜ Potohar ➜ Khayban-e-Johar ➜ Faiz Ahed Faiz ➜ Kashmir Highway ➜ Chaman ➜ Ibn-e-Sina ➜ Katchery ➜ PIMS ➜ Stock Exchange
Some notable places near Pakistan Metro Bus stops:
Marrir Metro Bus Station : Rawalpindi Railway Station
Liaquat Bagh Metro Bus Station: Hotel Akbar International, Raja Bazar
Waris Khan Metro Bus Station: Hotel Potohar, Sarafa Bazar, Naz Cinema
Faizabad Metro Bus Station: Bus Stops (adda), Travelling by bus to change bus at Faizabad Adda and then onward from Faizabad to get to Pir Wadhai by minibus 121.
Get on Minibus 110 from Faizabad Adda → Mandi Morr Bus Station. Walk along Faqir Aipee Road to get to Natco Bus Terminal.
IJP Metro Bus Station: Pendora Chungi, Double Road, Food Street, Stadium, Pirwadahi Road
Chaman Metro Bus Station: Niazi Express Terminal, Mangla Road
PIMS Metro Bus Station: Shah Faisal Masjid.
Stock Exchange Metro Bus Station: Predominantly around Islamabad Blue Area tourist will find a sprinkling of fast food chains, such as KFC and Subway.
Pakistan Metro Bus, to get on the bus, the tokens can be purchased from the on-station ticket office or obtained via the self-service Ticket Vending Machine (TVM) installed at each Metrobus station. Bus fare Rp. 20.
Tokens are to be tapped at the entry turnstile on the platform, retained during the journey, and put into the slot at exit turnstile when exiting the station.
HOTELS IN RAWALPINDI
Hotel Akbar International, Liaquat Rd, Liaquat Chowk; Hotel rate Rs 1250. Located near Liaquat Bagh Metro Bus Station
Hotel Best View
I.J.P Road, Near IGS CNG Pump, Opp 9th Avenue, Double Road, Rawalpindi, Pakistan, Islamabad
Shalimar Hotel
Pirwadhai Bus Stand, Pirwadhai, Rawalpindi 46000, Pakistan
Jasmine Inn
Jasmine INN, Jasmine Plaza, G-8 Markaz - Islamabad, G-8 Sector, Islamabad
Seven Brothers Hotel & Restaurant
Liaquat Rd, Raja Bazar, Rawalpindi, Punjab, Pakistan
Hotel Al Hayat
J-256 Murree Rd, Liaquat Bagh Chowk, Arya Mohalla, Rawalpindi 46000, Pakistan
AROUND RAWALPINDI
We had to wake up early today since a lot of ground to cover. We were so early in fact, that we raced everyone down the lobby.
The first on Rawalpindi itinerary was to the Rohtas Fort (Qila Rohtas). It is a good idea to make a trip to a place outside the city, but not that far from Rawalpindi. Take a day trip or less, which without any doubt is worth seeing.
Later in the day perhaps we are able to do with the tourist places within Rawalpindi / Islamabad.
ROHTAS QILA / ROHTAS FORT
Rohtas fort, famous for its unique and beautiful architectural structure, is located near Jehlum, about 120 KM from Islamabad. This fort was built by Sher Shah Suri to protect the northern frontiers of his empire. The strong fortifications are built to withstand enemy attack and natural calamities.
This fort is surrounded by massive walls which extend for more than 4 km – these walls have gateways and bastions to attack on the enemy. Though the fort is not well maintained and a proper village is housed inside the walls of the fort, yet archeological remains provides temptation for the lovers of history and photography. The fortification wall, gates, Shahi mosque, Baolis and Rani Mahal are the major tourist attractions.
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| Qilla Rohtas |
Admission: Qilla Rohtas. There is no entry fee.
Getting There: Rohtas Fort is located in Jhelum District of Punjab near the small town of Dina. It is at a distance of approximately 8 km from Jhelum. The main access to the fort is from G.T road from Islamabad or Lahore. The fort is approachable from the main highway if one turns right at Dina, which is a railway station as well as one of the busiest bus stops also about 120 km from Islamabad.
It takes around 1.5 hours from Rawalpindi to reach Jhelum By Bus, 122 Km distance.
Daewoo Express near EME College Motorway Chowk Peshawar Road Rawalpindi bus fare Rs 390
Daewoo Express bus service in Jhelum. Address:Behind Police Welfare Caltex pump near Jada, main G.T road Jhelum
Niazi Express Terminal, Mangla Rd, Islamabad Bus fare Rs. 600
There are numerous minibuses that head from the Grand Trunk (GT) bus stand to Rawalpindi (Rs 80).
In the vicinity of the Rohtas Fort, there are a number of restaurants that you may find interesting. Al-Kausar Hotel is near Jhelum towards Islamabad. Al-Bilal Hotel is near Jhelum towards Lahore. Iqbal Hotel near Jhelum towards Islamabad.
To visit the Rohtas Fort take a bus from Rawalpindi Bus Terminal (Daewoo / Niazi) to Jhelum from where the Rohtas fort is very close by. Take a day trip either by bus or a hired taxi to Rohtas fort and return by late afternoon.
There are several trains a day stop in Jhelum bound for Rawalpindi or Lahore but times are not as convenient as the numerous buses and minibuses plying the route.
Spend time two or three hours exploring the grounds. Bring a hat, and although drinks can be bought in the town, it’s wise to carry your own.
From Jhelum can take a bus (Rs 15) to Rohtas or hire a taxi (Rs 550 including waiting time and return). The last bus back to Jhelum officially leaves Rohtas at 3pm.
Its amazing that, much of the fort remains fully intact, even 500 years later. We were met by a local guide who was keen on briefing us extensively on every detail of the fort. We were happy to wander around exploring the walls of the massive fortification, climbing over bastions, crawling through tunnels, and passing through massive gates.
Two hours later, we had fully exerted ourselves. We now have already known every corner of Rohtas fort, and were ready to move onward to our next destination.
Next on our plan was to head towards Islamabad and Rawalpindi to see a few sights before dark fall.
A detour up the Margalla hills towards Daman-e-Koh for a magnificent evening view over Islamabad. The Shah Faisal Mosque was the most dominant sight along the nightscape.
SHAH FAISAL MOSQUE
Check out the Shah Faisal Mosque, simply it is the most prominent building in Islamabad. It is situated at the base of the Margalla hills, and was constructed in the 1970s and 80s. The mosque was a gift from Saudi Arabia’s King Faisal, who donated a whopping $50 M. Unlike most massive mosques in Pakistan, this one is completely modern looking, and the Turkish architects supposedly modeled it after a desert tent, with massive 88 meter minarets. The mosque was really neat, and we were advised to dress respectfully while visiting.
TRAVEL TO SOST
The bus journey from Rawalpindi to Gilgit can take as long as 24 hours.
Natco bus every 2 hour to Gilgit (Jamat Khana Bazaar), then take a bus from Gilgit to Sost.
RAWALPINDI TO GILGIT
NATCO busses run between Rawalpindi & Gilgit.
The bus from Rawalpindi as far as Gilgit takes at least 20hrs, often more depending on the road conditions. There are a few buses leaving Rawalpindi everyday, at all different times of the day, but the amount of time they take to reach Gilgit varies enormously. It could take something from 20-48 hours.
It leaves actually from Rawalpindi bus station, where you can also buy a ticket. This bus does not stop overnight, which I found too uncomfortable. Obviously, there are also no stopping for photography sessions on the way.
Rawalpindi to Gilgit Natco Bus Service= Fare Rs. 2100 per head
Gilgit to Hunza (Aliabad) Hiace= Fare Rs. 180 per head
Aliabad Hunza to Attabad Lake Hiace= Fare Rs. 50 per head
Attabad Lake Cross Boat = Rs. 70 per head
Gulmit to Sost Village Hiace = Rs. 130 per head
Sost to Khunjrab (Taxi or Jeep full hire) = Rs. 4000-7000.
Gilgit city is the main gateway to the Hunza Valley, and to get to Gilgit nearly everyone goes via Islamabad. Therefore getting to Hunza is a few step process;
From Islamabad there are daily (sometimes twice daily) flights to Gilgit on Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) for around Rs. 14,000 fare with return flight. The flight can only be booked usually only from within Pakistan itself. This means most travellers will need to spend a couple of nights in Islamabad before flying up to Gilgit, unless you’re lucky enough to have a local contact pre-book a ticket for you, and then be blessed with clear weather on the day you arrive.
Islamabad to Gilgit by Airplane $70 fare. Saves a lot of bumpy motion.
Departure
Flight PK-605 Departure ISB 07:00 AM; Arrival GIL 08:15 AM
Return
Flight PK-606 Departure GIL 08:45 AM; Arrival ISB 09:50 AM
Madina Hotel in Gilgit Bazar. It was still quite cheap though as a double room cost us only Rs.1000/night.
From Gilgit, you can take a jeep for around Rs. 500 to Karimabad, the main town in Hunza. Bargain hard – prices up to ten times higher are often quoted. The jeep hangs around Gilgit’s bus station until it’s full, then off you go! For transport further up the Karakoram Highway, continue in a jeep from Karimabad to the Attabad Lake, then a boat across the lake, then another jeep onwards to Passu or Sost. Prices are variable, and really depend on who you are, how much money the driver wants, and who has the best negotiating skills.
Travel from Gilgit very very early in the morning to take a bus leaving for Sost at 8am, (but if you could make it to Sost the night before departure that would be better). From Sost you could take the bus to Tashkurgan, and from there try to get a lift onwards to Kasghar.
Travelling Gilgit - Sost had to wait at Gilgit general bus stand at 7.30 am for the 8.00 am bus to Sost. Well, the bus finally left at 10 am. The bus fare Rs. 180 for the trip that took 5 hours to the last town before the Chinese border.
There's also a bus leaving Gilgit at around 6am in the morning. It arrives into Tashkurgan in the evening.
Transport Bus to Aliabad/Ganish/Karimabad can be found at Hunza Chowk, in Gilgit town center. The charge is Rs. 250 to Karimabad... but most passengers disembark before there, perhaps 200 or 230 to Aliabad/Ganish. About 2-4 hour ride.
Gulmit, Aliabad, Gilgit and Chilas are connected by the Karakoram Highway with The Sost dry port on the north.
Vans leave for Aliabad and Karimabad regularly from Gilgit and cost Rs. 50/- one way. To get to the bus station in Gilgit ask any of the vans plying the streets in Gilgit to take you there. Vans for Gojal , North Hunza, leave from the Gojal Udda , albeit a lot less frequently.
Gilgit to Karimabad takes three hours including a traditional tea/food break at Nomal, the halfway point. Most vans go all the way to Karimabad, while some stop in Aliabad. If your van stops in Aliabad, jump onto one of the Suzukis that run between Aliabad and Karimabad. The ride takes 10 to 15 minutes and costs between Rs. 5/- and Rs. 15/- depending on how much luggage you have.
Vans to Passu and Sost in North Hunza take between four and six hours from Gilgit. NATCO also runs public buses between Gilgit and Sost that leave early in the morning.
If time is short and money is not an issue, a private jeep from Gilgit to Hunza should cost you no more than Rs. 1,000/- while jeeps to Passu cost Rs. 1,500/-. Jeeps are plentiful in Gilgit. Ask around in the main bazaar for the best rate.
RAWALPINDI TO KARIMABAD
Departure Rs. 2200/-
Rawalpindi 18:00 pm ➜ Karimabad (+ 26 hr)
Rawalpindi 14:00 pm ➜ Karimabad (+ 26 hr)
Return Rs. 2200/-
Karimabad 10:00 am ➜ Rawalpindi (+ 26 hr)
NATCO & Silk Route bus companies daily bus service (thrice each bus company) operate from (Pir Wadhai bus terminal) Rawalpindi.
Northern Area Transport Corporation Bus Terminal is located at address 1-11/4, 48 Faqir Aipee Road, Islamabad 44000, Pakistan
The great thing about Pakistan is that local buses leave all the time and not necessarily on a schedule. When a bus fills up, it leaves. Simple.
Back then, the KKH a single-lane highway that was constructed in the 1960s and 1970s by the Pakistanis and the Chinese. The road is paved but parts of it keep getting washed away by landslides so the going isn’t easy. Some sections of the road passes through extremely barren terrain so don’t expect lush green valleys and alpine flowers along the way.
Even under ideal conditions, the KKH is a hard road. A half dozen towns are scattered along the highway; besides these the KKH is a mountain wilderness. Limited services are available along the road. If the lines are not down, you may be able to find a Public Call Office. Medical facilities are non-existent. If you are driving yourself always check for the availability of petrol and diesel ahead. In case of a car breakdown, you’re in trouble. Accommodation along the road is basic, as are eating-places.
Contrary to the impression that you may have gotten above, the KKH does not really begin in Rawalpindi, but Mansehra. Rawalpindi to Mansehra is a four to five hour drive, passing Taxila and Abbotabad. Unless you’re really into the Gandhara Buddhist civilization, Taxila is a dump. This entire stretch of the highway is quite dull really. Rawalpindi to Taxila gives the impression of being one continuous semi-urban, semi-rural sprawl, which indeed it is. The scenery improves a little by the time you reach Abbotabad, but not by much. After Abbotabad, the road becomes heavily forested and winding.
The buses that depart from Rawalpindi in the late afternoon usually make a very quick stop for tea/prayer around Abbotabad, but prefer to continue past Mansehra and onto Beshaam for a rather late dinner. If you leave Rawalpindi at four expect to reach Beshaam anywhere between 10 and midnight.
Karimabad (aka Baltit) is the capital of Hunza Valley in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan.
The Capital of Hunza Valley - Karimabad is just 100 KM drive from Gilgit, and most people arrive by road and it takes almost 2 - 3 Hours to reach Hunza from Gilgit. The main bus stand is on the KKH - Karakoram Highway 'Aliabad'. There are booking agents in town for long distance buses & jeeps along the KKH.
Hotels/guesthouses in Karimabad are plentiful and not full. Big tourist industry in this town. Lots of nice treks around Karimabad, Obviously. Internet available, only place I saw that North of Gilgit. Ganish is empty of foreigners, interesting to see.
KKH runs through Ganish, not Karimabad. Before proceeding north to the landslide lake (Pakistanis say "Spillway") you MUST get a no-objection certificate from the government office near Zero Point in Karimabad (ask at the internet cafe if you cannot find it). People have been turned back without the certificate. South-bound over the lake, no certificate seemed to be needed.
Gilgit/Karimabad to Sost is a bit typical now because of the Attabad Lake. In the past, cannot do road transport Gulmit-Passu, only boat, you first have to make it to the lake where you will take a boat and then again road transport. Nowadays are different.
Over the lake is Beautiful. Rs. 200 is what locals paid. I was asked for 300, but he didn't put up a fight to 200. Bring food and water, in case the boat has problems. Boat stops at a couple isolated/cut off villages, including Gulmit.
Crossing Attabad Lake at Gulmit by boat. From North side of Attabad lake to Passu, had to wait a while to get into transport... Rs. 100 (probably could do better) to Passu in van, about 20 minute ride. At lake, people were asking Rs. 2000 for a special/private to Passu… don’t bite. 1.5 Liters of water seems to be Rs. 60 north of lake due to transport problems… or maybe I was just suckered.
Lake to Passu is walkable, in principle, but be sure you understand the distance.
Today, the Karakoram Highway crosses Hunza, connecting Pakistan to China via the Khunjerab Pass, which was obstructed by the Attabad Lake north of Hunza has already been reopened using PAK-China Friendship Tunnels in 2016. Travelling up the valley from the south, Hunza is to the left, and the former state of Nagar to the right of the Hunza River. Regular bus and van services operate between Gilgit and Central Hunza (Ganish Village, Aliabad and Karimabad) and also between Gilgit and Sost Gojal. PTDC Office at Gilgit, Sost and Islamabad arranges tours and transport for visitors.
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| Tunnels/Bridges accross Attabad Lake. Central Hunza is connected with Gojal Upper Hunza. |
Passu is beautifully situated, lots of great treks nearby. Passu Inn is centrally located, the owner is very sweet, makes good, fairly-price meals, and cheapest room, single occupancy of double, was Rs. 200, without bargaining… seemed fair enough to me.
Passu to Sost is about 1-2 hours with fare around Rs. 100, probably could get away with paying nothing, if you find right person to hitch with. Locals pay nothing for most these rides.
Sost is a nasty little place... Again, no particular reason to stay there, other than to wait for the bus to China, or if you have some particular trekking nearby. Currency exchange available at competitive rates. Asia Star Hotel was asking Rs. 400 for a double, single occupancy…
BY BUS FROM GILGIT TO CHINA
Daily bus service crossing the border from Gilgit, Northern Areas, to Kashgar, China, and road widening work was scheduled for 600 kilometres of the Karakoram Highway.
Northern Areas Transportation Corporation (NATCO) announced regular bus service between Gilgit (Pakistan) and Kashgar (China). Bus service would operate daily between Gilgit and Kashgar via the Karakuram Highway through Khunjerab Pass. Only Passport and Border Pass holders can travel. A very scenic journey begins and you have to pay 800 Rs ($8 or 50 RMB) per person for the national park fee.
Natco’s daily bus from Gilgit to Kashgar (Rs. 5000, 15 hours) leaves the general bus stand at 6am.
Bus fare from Gilgit to Kashgar is Rs. 5000 per person, passenger can carry 20 Kg luggage free of cost.
Bus Timings:
Gilgit to Kashgar 06:00am (PST)
Kashgar to Gilgit 09:00am (Beijing Time)
The Khunjerab Pass is usually open from April 1st to November 31th, but closed in winter.
BY BUS FROM SOST TO CHINA
There were also plans for one daily bus in each direction between Sost and Tashkurgan in the border areas of the two countries.
There is another NATCO / Chinese bus between Sost and Tashkurgan, the best way to travel this stretch. The ticket reservation has to be made one day in advance at the NATCO office in Sost (next to the PTDC hotel) and it is scheduled to leave at around 9.30am. Expect to be delayed by customs and immigration though.
Sleeper Bus Ticket fare for upper bunk, Sost To Tashkurgan Rs. 2600. The entire drive took about 6hrs, which includes almost 2hrs at the Chinese customs.
9:30 AM bus Sost-Kashgar departs daily, Rs. 3200 for the ride.
From Kashgar (China) there is a ¥270 regular bus service to Hunza via Sost crossing over the Khunjerab Pass (about 5000 meter high). Across river Hunza at Sost, there is a village called Khoda-Abad. People usually do not stop at Khunjerab Pass, they just carry on their journey to Sost with the bus.
SOST RETURN JOURNEY TO RAWALPINDI
Transport from SOST leaves early in the morning, with the first minibuses full and ready to leave by 6am. Buses leave when full, and as the day progresses, about one or two hours between departures. Nellum Transport (operating out of a tiny unsigned tin booth) arranges minibuses to GILGIT (Rs. 180, five hours) via Passu (Rs. 40, one hour), Gulmit (Rs. 50, 1½ hours) and Ganish/Aliabad (Rs. 90, three hours).
One option, travel from Gilgit to reach Rawalpindi by the night, journey on a jeep which usually takes much lesser time than the NATCO bus service. The cost of a front seat on a Land Cruiser operated by Karakurum travels is Rs.4500. The jeep pick-up from Madina hotel at morning 8:45 am.
The jeep usually takes the route through Kaghan and Naran Valley via Babusar Top but it is still early summer and routes have not opened, had to travel on KKH. Reached Rawalpindi after about 14 hours of travel (according to the driver could have made it in 12 hours via Babusar Top).
Sost, we spend the night at this border town. Rs. 400 buy’s us a double-room and Rs. 200 buy’s Dahl, veggie’s, rice, chapatti’s, tea and cola for 2 persons.
From Sost, we get on the bus to Passu, an hour or two further down the road.
Passu is a very peaceful and quiet village in the shadow of a dramatic set of peaks known as the Cathedral on one side and mountain glaciers on the other. We stayed at the Passu Peak Inn, a basic but comfortable guesthouse run by a very friendly retired Pakistani army officer.
The people of Passu are Wakhis, coming originally from the Wakhan Valley in Tajikistan and Afghanistan. Although they speak their own Iranian language of Wakhi, they are Ismaili and to a certain extent consider themselves related to the people of the (also Ismaili) Hunza Valley to the south.
The number one “activity” in Passu, and one of the most famous short hikes off of the Karakoram Highway, is the “two bridges walk,” which goes from Passu over a couple of cable suspension bridges to the village of Husseini a bit further south on the KKH.
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| Cable suspension bridge at the village of Husseini. |
Bridge crossing cable suspension bridge. The planks are so far apart that at times you are forced to walk on one of the cables as on a tightrope. At the bridges’ lowest points you can hear the river crackling below you, and the fast motion of the water creates the uncomfortable and dizzying illusion that the bridge itself is moving in the opposite direction. There are several cables, however, so actually falling through is very unlikely.
The next day we get up real early. The minibus from Passu leaves for Karimabad at 5.30 am. It seems to be the normal way of travel. By 7 am we already arrive in Karimabad downtown.
Karimabad we find a nice hotel with a beautiful view for about Rs.1000.
More than 95% of the population of Karimabad belongs to the Ismaili religion. In the 8th century there was a split among the Shiites, who disagreed on which son of the sixth imam should succeed him which gave rise to the Ismaili branch of Islam.
In the afternoon we head up to the Baltit fort. Located on a large rocky outcrop at the base of the Ultar Nala, this palace dominates Karimabad. The views from here of the Hunza and Nagar valleys are superb. The fort was built some 800 years ago. The main section was built in the 17th century as part of a dowry accompanying a Baltistan princess who came to marry the Mir, with the architecture reflecting Baltistan ancient links with Tibet. It is primarily built of mud, plaster, stone and timber beams. The fort remained the official residence of the Mir of Hunza until the 1960’s.
When we walk back from the fort we buy some Pakistani clothes (shalwar kameez), which are loose fitting clothes. We will wear these kind clothes during our whole trip in Pakistan. It helps blend in a bit.
Walking down hill is nice and we continue to walk to Haldeikush were some ancient rock carvings can be seen. Then we have to do the walk back up, but halfway up a Land rover stops to give us a lift for free, we did not even ask. “Welcome to our valley” they say. Then we have a nice warm shower, dinner and tomorrow we will continue to Gilgit.
Gilgit
After breakfast, we walk down the mountain again. When we are down we understand that the bus to Gilgit leaves from Alibad, which is about 5 km further down the road. We decide to get there by walking but it seems a long 5 km and along the way we accept the offer of a jeep to bring us to the bus station. Three hours later we are in Gilgit.
Two buses leave daily from both Gilgit and Rawalpindi bringing you to your destination by early morning the next day. The fare is about Rs. 2100 one way. Tickets sell out quickly, so book at least a few days in advance. The buses make a stop every three to four hours. In Rawalpindi, buses leave from the main bus station, Pirwadhai.
The best way for you guys is to take a jeep or mini van from Sost to Karimabad there are daily air-conditioned buses from Ali Abad near Karimabad to Rawalpindi this will be the cheapest way.
Another option, Gilgit-Besham bus ride will take approximately 18 hours, although driving times vary enormously on this route. If you were going to break up the journey, Besham is the place that makes the most sense. However, Besham is not a town where the locals are particularly friendly towards foreigners, and you will definitely want to be wearing a shalwar kameez. The shalwar kameez can be worn by both men and women, but styles differ by gender.
Lay off at Besham for a night and take another bus to Rawalpindi. From Besham if you ride early possible to reach Rawalpindi in 8-10 hours.
To continue from Besham to Rawalpindi, you will likely have to take a series of minibuses (buses passing through are unlikely to have spare seats). From Besham there are minibuses to Mansehra, from Mansehra you might find minibuses direct to Rawalpindi, otherwise head first to Abbottabad and then on a coaster bus to Rawalpindi from there.
Regardless of which bus you take, there are a few things that you ought to keep in mind. Keep bottled water with you and something to munch on is also a good idea. The buses do stop for tea and meals but the stops (with the exception of Silk Route) aren’t fixed. Many times you may be delayed for long hours because of roadblocks and these vehicles have a nasty tendency to break down very often. Most of these buses will stop at local bust/truck hotels so if your picky about what you eat, carry food with you. Unfortunately you may not have a choice but to use the washrooms available at these places.
If you get even the least bit car-sick then keep motion sickness pills with you. Remember the further back in the bus you sit the more susceptible you will be to jolts along the way. Anything you stow in your baggage goes onto the roof of the bus so forget about accessing it till you reach your destination. Medication should be a carried on person. In the summer months the KKH highway is pretty warm even at night so you do not need to keep warm clothes on you.
GILGIT Motel
PTDC Motel Chinnar Inn, Babar Road, Gilgit.
It’s about 12 hours drive from Islamabad at a distance of 600 Kilo meter and by a thrilling 45 minutes flight. Along with its comfortable and well-furnished rooms overlooking the green lawns and its popular restaurant which is also the best in Town, the PTDC Motel offers Rent-a-Jeep, Curio Shop, Satellite Television, Telephone, Fax and Laundry facilities.
Hotel City Tower Gilgit provides a comfortable setting when in Gilgit. It is ideally close to Gilgit Airport, which is a 10-minute drive away.
SOST Motel
PTDC Motel, Pak-China Border, Sost, Dist. Gilgit
Sost is 2 hours driving time from Hunza and 5 hours from Gilgit. This is also the right place from where to visit the Khunjrab Pass. The Motel here is ideally located adjacent to the Immigration Post. Its comfortable, well-furnished rooms provide a welcome relief from the rugged, mountainous surrounding. The restaurant with its choice of Pakistani and western cuisine is a haven of delight. The Motel also offers Satellite TV, Laundry and Rent-a-Jeep/Transport facilities. Arrangements for traveling into China are available
PTDC Motel in Sost was the best in town. The best thing to do is just walk in and ask for a room. For Karimabad, the Eagle’s Nest Hotel is well regarded, and the Serena Hotel is a more luxurious option.
BESHAM Motel
PTDC Motel, Besham, KKH, Dist.Shangla (KPK)
Besham is about 6 hours drive from Islamabad at a distance of 272 Kilo meter. The PTDC Motel consist of 47 rooms, presents an ideal place to break the journey for an overnight stay enroute to Gilgit, or beyond. Overlooking the mighty Indus River, the Motel is located at a strategic junction on the road linking the Swat Valley over the Shangla Pass with the main KKH.
The Motel is very popular with tourists, who find great serenity along the sandy embankments of the Indus. Here, too, an excellent Restaurant, serving both western and local cuisine, is ideally placed overlooking the river. Besides its comfortable, well furnished rooms, the Motel is equipped with Telephone, Curio Shop, Satellite TV and Laundry facilities.
TRAVEL TIPS
This I hope could provide as a guide for backpacking the Karakoram Highway, meant for anyone who is passionate about visiting the wonderful region in Pakistan.
Communication
Amongst the first thing to do after arrival in Pakistan is to buy a SIM card of a Pakistan mobile phone provider. Phone calls are really cheap and mobile internet is pretty fast. Many guesthouses either do not have internet or if they have, it can be painfully slow, and thus being able to go online via the mobile network can be really helpful.
Mobile phone shop Pakistan
For getting a “u-fone” SIM card in Islamabad at the u-fone main office at F7 market, it costs Rs. 100 and you´d need your passport with visa, fill a form and they´ll issue a SIM card on the spot that is valid for the duration of your visa.
Taking the road from Islamabad to Gilgit require plenty of passport/visa copies for the police checkpoints, best to bring more than 20. The copy should have the main page of your passport on one half and the stamped (!) visa on the second. Even if you fly from Islamabad to Gilgit or Skardu, take a couple of copies just in case.
There are plenty of photocopy shops around e.g. at F6 market in Islamabad, I am sure at other markets as well but I have not checked. For the KKH from Islamabad all the way to China, there´s no more paper work required and you are free to go.
It is possible to change cash in Gilgit at unofficial money changers. Best is to ask your guesthouse for help with finding the right people – alternatively, ask around at the market. Exchange rates were very decent.
Transport
Minibuses are more for the short rides between villages and not for long distances. I mean, for sure you can do minibus hopping the entire way from Islamabad to Gilgit but this would not be recommended this due to security concerns.
But from Gilgit onwards it is absolutely no problem (and even quite fun) to use them. The buses run frequently, leave when full and it is easiest to ask your guesthouse from where the bus leaves. No worries, there is always a bus going the direction you want to go. A ticket costs around Rs. 300 for a one-hour ride.
Alternatively, you can hire a car with a chauffeur, which is the best choice if you want to see a lot and have a bit of comfort as well. The owner of the New Cape Grace Hotel in Islamabad can arrange hired car from Islamabad to Gilgit. It turned out to be very comfortable and safe since the company & driver were personally known to the hotel owner. However, at a rate of Rs. 33,000, it is not a cheap drive though. This price included the accommodation and food for the driver but not my expenses and it was organised with less than 24hrs notice.
By car it took 2 days, each at 9 hrs drive, to reach Gilgit and that was including the time for several breaks. The driver was responsible for organising places to stay for the night but it was all optional.
Further up along the KKH, almost every guesthouse has its own car & driver which you can hire on a short notice. Prices vary, depend on your negotiation skills but range between Rs. 2000 and 4000 for a one-hour drive (just roughly).
There are plenty of boats on the Attabad Lake that manage the public transport. They leave when full and a ride to the other lakeside is Rs. 100. I have noticed that some tourists hire their own boat (no idea about the price) but that is absolutely not necessary.
The boats are large enough for transporting bikes and they also take cars! There is one bigger ferry that ships trucks between the lakesides and might be a better/safer option for transporting your vehicle. But even if you won´t get on this one, the small boats definitively take cars & jeeps as well. Nowadays, its not necessary.
The new road construction around the Attabad Lake has made great progress and the full overland connection between Karimabad and Gulmit has been completed since 2015. NATCO bus connection to Sost is in service.
The classic Karakoram Highway from Islamabad to Sost via Besham. However, I was told by the driver that an alternative route from Islamabad to Chilas via Balakot and Naran is more scenic.
Crossing Khunjerab Pass into China
Note that the pass is only open for foreigners between early May and end of September – there are different opening times for locals. Apart from a Chinese visa, there is no more paper work required.
Be aware that the pass itself (and Chinese customs) are at almost 4700m and customs procedures from Pakistan to China can take a while (it took us almost 2hrs)! The other way around, i.e. from China to Pakistan is much faster and Pakistani customs is at Sost anyway. But if you easily get sick from the altitude, make some pre-arrangements for this crossing.
Travelling the Karakoram Highway between Islamabad and Gilgit, I don't find it so tremendously dangerous (if we were to follow all travel advices, we would have to stay in bed).
The stretch Islamabad-Gilgit is definitively worth the travel, but it is unfortunately a matter of fact that the Taliban target specifically foreigners in Pakistan. I am not going to tell you it is safe, it is simply not, but at the same time, it is also not as dangerous as the news tell us. The ordinary people are no threat at all, they will befriend you like crazy and do everything they can to make sure, you are safe!
As foreigner, you will get a compulsory police escort if you´re travelling in your own car. It starts shortly before Besham and ends a bit before Raikot bridge (about 80km before Gilgit) and there is no more escort required further north.
How the escorts work? The special KKH anti-terrorism force will stop your car and an armed guard will jump in, so please reserve one seat for him. If the car is full, I understood, they would accompany you with their own car, which is nice but not exactly the kind of low profile activity that seems to be required on this road. There´s nothing you would have to organise in advance for this escort, your car will be stopped and a guard gets in – that´s it.
The NATCO bus does not get an armed escort.
In addition to the escort, there are plenty of police checkpoints until Gilgit where you have to register and hand over your passport/visa copies. Furthermore, numerous heavily armed vehicles patrol along the KKH, but all this ends at Gilgit.
Minimum essential advices for (the road trip) safety:
Make sure you have a functional mobile phone to call for help if needed. That obviously requires you to make plans for who to call when! Either know a few numbers by heart or write it on a paper rather than only keeping it in your phone.
What will you do if your stuff gets stolen? Put some security money separate from the rest at a “secret” place. If your stuff gets stolen, you need cash for transport to the next police/hotel/embassy.
Between Islamabad and Gilgit: keep a very low profile, i.e. ideally the KKH guard sits in your car rather than having an additional escort vehicle so that everyone can see from miles away that a foreigner is coming.
Never ever drive after dark! It might be even forbidden by now for foreigners to do that on the KKH, but make sure you leave at sunrise and arrive in your overnight place well before sunset.
Don´t be scared away, it really sounds worse than it actually is!! I pretty much enjoyed myself and was not scared at all!
Accommodation
Some information about accommodation in the Lonely Planet are obsolete but since they are quite old already and many things have changed in Pakistan, some of the there listed hotels and guesthouses are not in business anymore or could be pretty run-down.
Tripadvisor is more up to date but the number of places listed are very few and limited to bigger destinations such as Islamabad. Prior to your trip, you should do some research using Tripadvisor or simply Google. Especially Google will help you finding guesthouses because many of the guesthouses have a Facebook page, rather than an ordinary webpage.
These are the places where I stayed during my trip; importantly, I felt safe in all of these places.
Islamabad
New Cape Grace Guesthouse is an excellent place to stay! The room, bed & bathroom were crisp clean and the food was just great! What makes this place even better is the awesome support that Mr. Ali, the owner, provides to his guests. He can explain where to buy a SIM card, food, organised a taxi driver to get passport copies prepared and eventually arranged a rental car for Gilgit with a trustworthy company.
Lahore
Our Lonely Planet guidebook recommended the Regale Internet Inn in Lahore, so of course, stop by to say hello to Malik. And indeed, he does live up to his reputation as a lively and gracious host.
Besham
PTDC Motel: At a rather nice location near the river, a bit outside of town in a fenced and guarded compound. You will find several signs along the road pointing you in the right direction to the motel.
Rooms are large and everything is very clean. Food is okay. They have an electricity issue, as so many other places as well, so be prepared that there is only electricity in the evening once they get their generator on. Price was around Rs. 3000 /night.
Gilgit
Madina Guesthouse: it´s true that this place has a good atmosphere and even a small garden to hang out. The staff was really friendly and helpful, no question! Rooms were ok for the price (fabulous Rs. 800/night).
Transporation within Gilgit is by Suzuki loaders.
At Gilgit, take a coach from Jutial bus terminal to Karimabad, about 4 to 5 hrs on road. NATCO bus terminal at Jutial Gilgit, so no worries for the travelers to south or north and the coaches for Karimabad.
The transport also leaves Gilgit for Rawalpindi/Islamabad from Jutial bus terminal.
Karimabad/Altit
Eagle´s Nest in Altit/Duikar: What a fantastic place!! I stayed in the cheaper rooms outside of the main building, which are basic, but super clean, spacious and quiet. There is hot water 24/7, food is great and the staff is extremely polite and welcoming. And if you see the landscape and the view, you will want to stay forever!
Internet works only occasionally but there is almost all the time electricity. They can even pick you up from the bus station in Karimabad at about Rs. 1000 – unless you want to walk all the way with your luggage.
Gulmit
Marco Polo Guesthouse: This place is very good, but I found it a bit pricy at Rs. 3500 /night.
The rooms were large and clean, bathroom and towels could have been cleaner for this price. Food was extremely good and the staff was very nice and helped a lot with organising the bus ticket to China on the next day. Further, the manager called a few times in 24hrs to ensure that everything is ok and have everything they need – that to me made up for the pricier rooms.
They have an old and a new building, the rooms in the new building were much better but more expensive as well. They pick you up for free from the Attabad lakeside once you land with the boat, best is really to call them in advance so they will be there in time.
Sost
The PTDC motel, which made a NATCO bus ticket reservation for me. And while waiting for the bus departure, I had breakfast there. This looks like a good place to stay.
Alternatively the Riveria Hotel was recommended and at least from outside it looked pretty good.
SOST AND PASSU: NORTH OF HUNZA VALLEY
Some people say that the area north of the Hunza Valley, is the closest thing to heaven on Earth. They might just be right.
I woke up in Sost, a small village about halfway between Gilgit and the Chinese border, after the long drive down from Kashgar in western China.
With a couple of friends I walked the streets, looking through the shops, photographing the imposing craggy summits which towered above Sost like natural skyscrapers. Here, rather than snow-capped mountains, the summits were jagged rocky spires thrust skywards by year of seismic activity, and the snow seemed to dust the peaks then collect in grooves in the rocks, forming ribbons which twisted down the slopes.
My friend and I took a walk around Sost’s drab bazaar as the looming mountains carved up the drifts of clouds pouring in. We also took a stroll to the river, and over the suspension bridge which led to the community on the other side. Khoda-abad (City of God) was a tiny settlement of only a couple of families, separated by mud and stone walls, wheat plantations, apricot orchards, cherry trees and sunflowers.
The women only loosely covered their heads – their history predates Islam’s arrival in Pakistan. The local language is Shina, a distant relative of Greek, left over from when Alexander the Great swept through these parts. A couple of friendly children led us around their pretty village where quaint laneways were shaded by fruit trees, all of it guarded by the majestic peak behind it.
The next morning we ate breakfast in the motel cafe – parathas (oily bread-pancakes), omelet and chai. The day was spent here chatting with friends.
We relaxed on the terrace at night, counting falling stars in the crystal clear night sky.
Leaving towards Karimabad the next day, via Passu, then Passu to Karimabad by minibus. The Karakoram Highway twisted and turned its way over the brutal geology, and the seat nearly divided my backside into three, as we enjoyed the picture-postcard panoramas. We finally reached of the fabled Hunza Valley. Before us lay an arch bridge, over which was easily the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen. No wonder they make it so hard to get there.
Natural springs every few hundred metres, like fountains gushing from the landscape. Snowy peaks which descended into glaciers before getting lost in the carpet of poplar trees. Waterfalls, some up to a hundred metres high, feeding the rivers which ran through the farms and orchards.
Women in brightly coloured shawls working in the fields, men labouring in the town centre and children running and playing gleefully through the streets. It’s difficult to overstate the sheer beauty and purity of the Hunza Valley – it’s a cliche, but its not an understatement to say that photos don’t do it justice.
When to go
May or June; otherwise September and October are ok, but can be quite cold. During July and August, the monsoon is present, often causing flooding and landslides. This can seriously disrupt transport, or be downright dangerous if you’re in the wrong place at the wrong time. In November it starts snowing, and wintry conditions can close the region for travellers until early May.
This is a destination not for the fragile. Expect long, uncomfortable bus rides and steep walks through villages that simply come with the territory.
This is one destination where you should take safety advice seriously.
The roads in this area are prone to landslides, rockfall, flooding and in the winter, blizzards. While the highway is being upgraded with the help of Chinese engineers, there is still an inherent danger of travelling along it.
Even outside of the monsoon season, it’s vital to have a flexible schedule – delays of several days are not uncommon.
Terrorism is perhaps an issue in many other parts of Pakistan but not in the Hunza Valley, however it’s still wise to keep your eyes open. Parts of the Karakoram Highway south of Gilgit are known to be volatile, therefore, so many travellers nowadays prefer to fly directly to Gilgit.
There’s not a lot to see in Gilgit anyway, so if you’re worried there’s really no need to hang around the city except while waiting for the flight.
Hunza and Sost are very remote, and if you fall sick in these areas, medical facilities are limited. A major hospital in Gilgit is at least 10 hours drive away from Sost (including the boat ride). Be very careful what you eat, and coming prepared with a medical kit is advisable; speak with a trusted and experienced travel doctor first.
Internet facilities are scarce in these areas, particularly in Passu and Sost.
Remember that while the Hunza Valley and surrounding areas are not as religiously conservative as other parts of the country, you’ll receive a warmer welcome if you dress modestly and act appropriately.
Perjalanan memasuki Pakistan melalui Lahore seterusnya ke Islamabad, Rawalpindi, Gilgit, Hunza dan kembali ke Gilgit, Rawalpindi dan kembali ke Lahore.
Persiapan untuk ke Pakistan pada awal rancangan untuk melintasi Karakoram Highway dari Pakistan ke China, melintasi sempadan Pakistan-China dibandar antara sempadan Sost dan Tashkurgan yang merangkumi 173 km "No Mans Land".
Making a journey through Karakoram Highway from Kashgar to Islamabad. It doesn't appear that you need any kind of special permit. You need a Pakistani visa, and you probably need to take one of the official buses across the border.
Once you are stamped out of China at the immigration post at Tashkurgan, you can no longer move independently for the remainder of the journey inside China.
You are not allowed to get off from a bus on Khunjerab pass until you have reached Sost and get a entry stamp on your passport from immigration office.
Typically people arrive in Sost too late in the day to travel onwards the next day. There are a couple of basic hotels where you can find a warm bed and hot meals.
In Sost, Gilgit-bound minivans will be waiting for the bus to arrive, so unless there are major delays you should be able to move onwards same day. To make this work you should have Pakistani rupees exchanged in Kashgar/Tashkurgan.
You can of course hitchhike once in Pakistan but be aware that sometimes the equivalent of a minibus fare is expected by the drivers. In any case, you will have to pay for your fares through to Sost so you may as well use the bus.
In general, there aren't that many transportation vehicles in certain areas north of Pakistan to bring you around. I've sat on the side of the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan before and only seen one vehicle an hour. Often when you want to get around there, the problem is that every vehicle is full. Most vehicles which have space will offer to take you, but they'll expect a bit of money - it would be rude of you not to offer it to them, though sometimes drivers may refuse to accept money.
LEAVING PAKISTAN
We were a bit paranoid about missing our flight (traffic was heavy), and made it to the airport with just over an hour to spare. But thankfully, we found the airport to be tiny, and were able to easily check in and get our boarding passes with enough time. We definitely plan on coming back to visit Northern Pakistan again and the KKH. Until next time!
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